During previous demonstrations of the Inkadinkado Stamping Gear on Create and Craft TV I have mostly focused on the circular cogs and wheels so I thought that I would take a moment to give you some quick ideas for using the square and rectangular cogs and wheels.
What’s The Difference?
The first thing that struck me about the square set that was different to the circle set was that I was now going to be working with a straight sided object, (obviously there’s no revelations there, lol), the point though was that the sections were not like the uniformly spaced ‘wedges’ of the circular cog and wheel.
For a start, the corner notches sit further out than expected and there are more corner notches on the square wheel than on the square cog.
I would need to keep this in mind as some of the techniques that I have previously discussed, and that were developed using the circular set, such as the ‘closed basic’ technique and ‘open basic’ technique, may need to be adapted.
To help manage this difference (between the round and square systems) there are Inkadinkado stamp sets from EK Success designed for use with the Square cog and wheel that will have designs specifically suited to creating corners and edges.
You’ll be able to tell which are which as there is a picture of the cog on the package of stamps.
Having said all of that I still felt that, from a design point of view, there was plenty of potential so I set about experimenting.
Positioning Ideas for Cogs
I began testing positioning ideas with the square cog.
The cog can of course be positioned with it’s edges aligned to the edges of your card. Here is a quick look at how that worked.
First, I positioned the cog in the centre of the card and then put the stamps on the card to make sure that they would fit and also that the design would work.
Picking up the stamp from where it sat on the paddle meant that it was ready in the position that I needed it to be to start stamping.
Then I stamped the North, South, East and West points. These points are marked on the cog with a small triangular outcrop.
Doing this gave me a starting point from which to build the design.
Next I stamped the corners. I used a different coloured ink for my first attempt.
Then I filled in the other areas. You may notice that I changed my mind part way through this and started over. I’m sure we’re all a bit like that. I changed the colour of the corners to match the centre impressions. This was to balance the design and also set these key points out from the ‘filler’ impressions.
Here’s a look at the design once the cog was removed.
So that worked nicely, but what about turning the cog 45 degrees so that it created a diamond effect on the card?
Starting in the same way, but having positioned the cog at the angle mentioned I tested the layout of the stamps.
I then stamped as before. I haven’t shown the stages this time but I should explain that I still stamped the North, South, East and West points which now lay pointing towards the corners, and then filled in the remaining spaces.
Whilst I had the cog in position I also went back in and stamped over the corners to fill out the pattern to all edges of the card as shown below.
Here is the final design minus the cog.
So I haven’t mentioned much about the rectangular wheels and cogs yet, but they can act in a similar fashion.
Here is a way of creating a band of interest across each corner using the rectangular cog.
As before, position the cog and then stamp. On this one I did stamp into every other notch on the cog and then made a much lighter impression in the spaces.
And now, without the cog in place.
A very simple idea, but I think that you’ll agree, one with plenty of possibilities. I personally really like it.
Anyway, next I moved away from square cards onto more rectangular cards.
This first one was approximately DL in size.
It’s the same process again though; position the cog and test the stamps.
I changed the process here a little and stamped the design at each ‘end’ of the design first and then built the design around that.
And now, without the cog.
Perfect for a sentiment or topper, don’t you think?
Staying with the DL (elongated) card size, I then put the rectangle cog straight across the middle. The intention was to create a border at either end.
I stamped the central impression on either end first and then decided that I would space out the bolder impressions and then use a lighter tone of ink on the two impressions in between each of the bolder ones.
I left the cog in place on this one and photographed it from above so that you can see what I mean.
Now, without the cog in place.
This technique also works great for creating a border along the bottom of a tag.
Right, so that’s the smaller scale cards done but I can only really achieve a maximum size of 8 inches square with the square cog. What about going large?
Positioning Ideas for the Wheels
When I tested the square wheel I wanted to try it on a 12 inch square piece of cardstock. Working at this size is in essence no different to using the cogs on smaller projects. There were inevitably be more notches to play with and therefore more potential for variation in pattern but I found that the positioning and stamping processes are all the same.
So, here’s a series of images showing the process I went through to build a straight aligned design.
Position the wheel and begin stamping. I spread these out evenly so that I would have the opportunity to use a different colour in between each impression.
I then went back in with a different colour and completed another circuit.
Here’s a closer look at the pattern.
With the wheel I had the opportunity to stamp on the inside of it’s circumference so I thought that I’d test this out within this same project to see what differences there where.
The internal corners clearly need to be at a 45 degree angle and therefore the paddle that has been developed for the square system has three notches at one end. This is to help achieve that perfect angle so I found it a good idea to make sure that my stamp was aligned to that end of the paddle.
As before I stamped a circuit using one colour. There was space for two impressions on each internal edge given the spacing that I wanted. This time you may notice that the impressions almost overlap – these could be photo corners maybe?
I then filled in the gaps with the second colour and it created quite an enclosed design.
Here is a closer look without the wheel.
As before, the wheel can be rotated 45 degrees before beginning the stamping. Here is how that came out.
Don’t forget, you can of course shadow stamp, use alternate colours or even use the ombre style of stamping to create your designs.
Here a few extra suggestions and ideas:
- The wheel or cog does not always have to be positioned in the centre of the card. Try positioning them so that the design spills over the edge.
- Try creating more than one design on a project. ‘Link’ the designs with colour and/or the design style of the stamps.
- The design can be the focal point or the background – it’s totally versatile.
- By using the centre of the wheel you can join the design up in the centre, perhaps to create a floral design.
- Projects of varying size from about 3.5 inches all the way up to 12 inches in width can be achieved.
So that’s just a few tips and ideas that I have for using the square and rectangle cogs/wheels. If you have any more, please feel free to share them with other post readers by commenting below.
I guess that it would be easy to say that the possibilities are endless, but when you consider the various combinations of achieveable patterns, and the fact that you can combine it with a vast array of stamps then I am sure that you can see that this statement isn’t far wrong.
Finally, here are a few ideas of things that I have made using the square or rectangle stamping gear.
Anyway, I hope that you have enjoyed learning a little more about the square Inkadinkado Stamping Gear system in this blog post. I certainly had fun playing with the system in order to create it.
Have you used yours yet?
If you have any more questions or comments, please feel free to list them below and I will endeavour to reply as soon as I can.
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Many thanks for reading.